
The city famously guards its secrets, and good local haunts have been hard to find
by DINA ESFANDIARY
WHEN most people think of Geneva, they picture pristine blue lakes surrounded by snow-capped mountains, premium melt- in-your-mouth chocolate and Rolexes galore. What they don’t imagine is a bustling food scene. And indeed, the city’s culinary landscape has always been pretty bland.
Geneva, a small city of about 400,000 people, likes to punch above its weight, with more than its fair share of private banks and international businesses. The long-sleepy food scene is catching up, albeit slowly, helped by a steady influx of foreign workers — over 40% of the population isn’t Swiss. The city’s dining institutions (some of my childhood favourites are still around) are now seeing competition from international restaurants and dynamic pop-ups.
With world leaders gathered in the small Swiss town of Davos for the annual World Economic Forum last month, we decided to highlight one of the biggest, most cosmopolitan cities in the Alpine country. The city famously guards its secrets, and good local haunts have been hard to find.
So we’ve picked five notable spots you won’t see on standard “where to eat in Geneva” lists. Among them, a buzzing French bistro where food is an art form, a colourful Syrian-Armenian dining room and a tiny sushi joint that transports you straight to Tokyo that’s popular on Bloomberg Terminal’s DINE <GO> Index. — Bloomberg
(Clockwise from right) Oxtail cromesqui, tuna tartare and grilled leek salad with goat’s cheese at the revamped Le Dorian
New: Le Dorian, Place Neuve
Le Dorian isn’t new-new to the restaurant scene — it dates back to the 1950s — but it was signi- ficantly revamped last year, transforming from a stale, dated place to a dining room oozing French bistro cool, with simple, beautifully presented food from chef Florian le Bouhec.
On the business lunch menu (42 Swiss francs, or about RM213), which changes daily, the starter might be a sunny, fresh-flavoured tuna tartare. On the a la carte starter menu, oxtail croquettes (20 francs) are hearty and tender, topped with thick gravy. Ordering pasta in a French bistro might feel odd, but do it: The veal ravioli (39 francs) are delightful, stuffed with tender meat under a sharp Parmesan cream sauce and pickled onion garnish.
But the meal’s highlight comes at dessert. On the set lunch menu, the passion fruit éclaire is wonderfully creamy and zesty. And nothing beats the millefeuille (14 francs): Simple, crispy, buttery layers of pastry with fluffy cream in the middle and a dollop of homemade caramel ice cream on the side.
Pl. René-Payot 1; ledorian.ch
No Reservations: Cadmus, Jonction
Dining at Cadmus evokes a meal in the north Syrian city of Aleppo on a tranquil day, when bright, boisterous dining rooms are full of families and tables are stocked with kebabs and colourful mezze plates.
Here, the hearty Syrian menu is dotted with Armenian influences. Salads, including the toasted pita fattoush (15 francs), are lemony and packed with fresh produce. Among other excellent choices are hummus topped with chunks of juicy fried beef (19 francs); the creamy, indulgent shanklish (14 francs), considered a salad despite being almost all cheese; and the little, crispy soujouk (Armenian sausage) rolls (15 francs).
For mains, the grilled meats are uniformly succulent, but the kebab karaz (28 francs), a pile of little meatballs in sour cherry sauce, is the star. Portions are generous; be ready to take food home. The place takes reservations, but you don’t need them during the week. Go with a group to maximise your mezze order.
Ave de Sainte-Clotilde 9; cadmusrestaurant.com/en/home
A selection of sushi and tamaki at Nagomi
Business Meal: Le Bologne, Cornavin
Among the savvy business and finance crowds in Geneva, le Bologne is an institution. The place is buzzing during every weekday service — on weekends it’s closed — with a dining room whose laidback atmosphere belies its seamless service and confident cooking.
The menu is short and seasonal. But the most popular dishes are on rotation, including the pluma pata negra (51 francs), a premium, flavourful cut of Iberico pork served with a tangy teriyaki sauce that cuts right through the fatty meat. Before that, order the duck cromesqui (24 francs), a fancy croquette that sits atop a cauliflower and apple mash — improbable, but successful. Celery risotto with truffle and foie gras (24 francs) is another popular starter.
No matter what, be prepared for the old-fashioned French bistro dessert cart when it rolls by. Your options include lemon meringue tart and praline-filled Paris- Brest (15 francs gets you as many sweets as your plate can hold).
Rue Necker 11; lebologne.com/accueil
There’s no wrong dumpling order at Le Dim Sum Gourmand (Pic courtesy of Le Dim Sum Gourmand)
Value: Le Dim Sum Gourmand, Paquis
Good value is not something routinely associated with Geneva, which consistently ranks among the world’s 10 most expensive cities. But sometimes you can find a little-known gem. Dim Sum Gourmand lives up to its name, with small Chinese plates done incredibly well.
The restaurant’s decor is simple, bordering on bland. But no one comes here for anything but the food. You’re here for the dim sum, but start with the starters, like crispy spring onion pancakes (9 francs). They’re terrific with the salt-and-pepper pork ribs (20 francs).
Dumplings are delicate, served piping hot with quality meat and vegetable fillings from beef and celery (11 francs), to chicken and pak choi (bok choy, for 11 francs), to grilled pork and Chinese cabbage (12 francs) and the more traditional, nicely pleated shrimp har gow (11 francs). The barbecue pork bao buns (9 francs) are equal parts fluffy, sweet and juicy. If you have room for dessert, assorted mochi can be had for 12 francs.
Rue du Prieuré 5; le-dim-sum-gourmand.ch
Duck cromesqui (croquette) and grilled leeks at Le Bologne
DINE: Nagomi, Paquis
You’d be forgiven for walking right past this unmarked sushi counter, tucked away on the edge of Geneva’s red-light district. Behind the small signless door is a tiny, simple dining room, anchored by an L-shaped counter. The star of the show is Chef Masahiko Numabukuro, who stands behind the bar slicing seafood into creations that transport diners to Japan.
Before getting to the exquisite fish, start simple with a nourishing miso soup (5 francs) and salty, tangy seaweed salad (12 francs). Don’t skip the one outlier on the menu: The sumptuous, meltingly tender pan-fried foie gras with ponzu or yuzu-lemon sauce (29 francs). Then come sushi selections, like fatty tuna temaki (16 francs), eel nigiri (8 francs) and smokey salmon-skin hosomaki (13 francs).
There’s no wrong order, but if you want the chef to make decisions for you, go with the Sushi Moriawase menu, an omakase for 92 francs. For a broader experience, try the Nagomi Kaiseki, a full tasting menu for 135 francs. “Beyond the food, the sushi bar experience is as close to what you’d get in your neighbourhood restaurant in Japan itself,” reports a DINE user. If you can’t get a reservation at Nagomi, go next door to Nagomi Tempura, where exquisitely fried seafood and vegetables are the standouts.
Rue de Zurich 47; restaurant-nagomi.com
- This article first appeared in The Malaysian Reserve weekly print edition
The post Geneva’s must-try biz lunch spots appeared first on The Malaysian Reserve.








