belon

by SARA HEMRAJANI

HONG Kong (HK) isn’t lacking for polished French bistros and as the competition sharpens, Belon is looking to gain an edge with a change in the kitchen.

At just 29, Istanbul-born Mina Güçlüer has stepped into the role of head chef, making her one of the youngest to lead a top restaurant in the city and among a small number of women running Michelin-starred restaurants in Asia.

Her imprint on the menu is showing up in the form of cooking rooted in French technique that incorporates local ingredients and elements from her Turkish background.

That’s most apparent in her East-West twist on the roast duck: Sourced from Guangzhou, dry-aged for 14 days and served with apricot and bulgur wheat.

The dish anchors Black Sheep’s monthly “Plated” deal, an early-week fixed price menu at HK$428 (RM256) per person.

This writer and her guest booked spots for a Monday night. Straight away, we were pleasantly surprised by the New York jazz bar aesthetic: Think sophistication in shades of blue and gray.

In fact, nothing about Belon visually resembles a traditional Parisian bistro. However, the muted colour palette didn’t detract from the carefully crafted and delicious food. Another highlight was the staff, who were incredibly attentive and generous.

After a complimentary glass of champagne, we began with the ceviche-style fluke (light and zesty on the tongue) and were charmed by our waitress into ordering chef Mina’s signature brioche beef tartare (HK$398) to share.

That was followed by the aforementioned duck and then we ended with a sinful mille-feuille (HK$198). Our bill, including service, totalled HK$1,658.

The vibe: Contemporary chic in the heart of Soho. The overall ambience is classy yet intimate and laid back, with tables suited for up to four people. Belon welcomes smart casual attire.

Who’s next to you:

The combination of various promotions brought out couples, friends, colleagues as well as families. 

Can you conduct meeting here? Yes, absolutely. There’s enough space between the tables to allow for formal conversations and the nu jazz soundtrack is a subtle touch in the background.

What we’d order again: The brioche beef tartare with caviar is a crowd favourite for good reason. The buttery, melt-in-your-mouth dish is superb despite its unassuming appearance.

This writer also have no regrets about indulging in the latest dessert offering — a colourful strawberry and Chantilly cream mille-feuille treat.

Need to know: Belon is on the first floor of 1-5 Elgin Street. Its entrance is discreet and the door to the stairway is tucked away between Fukuro and Ho Lee Fook. 

The restaurant serves dinner every day from 6pm to 10 pm. Guests who wish to immerse themselves in the action of the kitchen can reserve the chef’s counter (seats up to four people) for what sounds like a unique front-row experience. — BLOOMBERG

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